Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to by Yedida Kalfon Stillman

By Yedida Kalfon Stillman

Это хорошо иллюстрированное издание, представляет собой историческое и этнографическое исследование одного важного аспекта арабской и исламской материальной культуры - одежды. Описывается развитие и трансформация платья за прошедшие 1400 лет в большей части исламского мира: на Ближнем Востоке, Северной Африке, и в средневековой исламской Испании. Платье - часть исламской системы облачений, рассматриваемой в книге в рамках контекста социальных, религиозных, эстетических и политических тенденций каждого исторического периода.
В дополнение к пяти историческим главам, три главы посвящены главным темам истории арабского костюма - кодексу платья для не-мусульман, важному социально-экономическому и политическому значению роскошных тканей и предметов почётной одежды, и, наиболее известным, но часто неправильно истолковываемым, скрывающим элементам одеяния.Образцы сканов:

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Additional info for Arab Dress: A Short History: From the Dawn of Islam to Modern Times

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Akad. d. , Bd. lxii, Abh. 1 (Vienna 1918), p. 67. 33 pre-islamic arabia and the early umma 19 suggested a connection between this cap and the ancient Egyptian headcovering called by the Latin writers turritum capitis ornamentum or turritam coronam. However, S. Fraenkel’s suggestion that the word is derived from Aramaic ãer§tÊn seems more probable, since such hats were worn in the Aramaic-speaking regions in the period just prior to the advent of Islam. 37 On military expeditions, men wore a mighfar or ghif§ra, a cap or headcloth of mail over which was worn a qalansuwa or a helmet known as bay·a (so-called because of its resemblance to an ostrich egg).

The use of underdrawers is attested in the ancient Near East outside the Persian cultural orbit. The Israelite pre-islamic arabia and the early umma 11 priests, for example, wore linen breeches as part of their vestments when performing sacred rites (cf. Exodus 28:42-43). There are ÈadÊths both claiming and denying that the Prophet wore sirw§l. e. wearing the sirw§l, at this early period. In one well-known story the Prophet averted his glance out of modesty from a woman who had fallen from her mount until he was assured that she was wearing a sirw§l.

227. 5 See Dussaud, La pénétration des Arabes, pp. 100-105, figs. 20-23, et passim. , repr. Beirut 1900), p. 411. My translation. The rendering in The Muqaddimah: An Introduction to History, vol. 2, trans. Franz Rosenthal (Pantheon Books: New York, 1958), p. 367, does not quite capture the sense of the original Arabic yashtamilåna ’l-athw§b ishtim§lan. pre-islamic arabia and the early umma 9 ments of an Arab as an example of a blue-black color it is trying to define with precision (Tractate Niddah, 20a).

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