Basics Fashion Design: Construction by Kiran Gobin, Anette Fischer

By Kiran Gobin, Anette Fischer

Development is the basis of favor layout. It takes nice ability to take a two-dimensional drawing and switch it right into a profitable garment--and now style designers can examine these crucial talents, from fundamentals type layout: building. With no-nonsense textual content and greater than two hundred colour photos, this ebook leads readers during the crucial phases of making a garment, from trend slicing to building and draping a model, to finishes and haberdashery. Interviews with designers and different fashion-industry creatives from worldwide provide interesting insights into garment building, from inspiration to execution.

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2 A sleeve block for a set-in sleeve, showing the part where the sleeve can be eased into the armhole. 3 Variations on the one-piece set-in sleeve: a Peak sleeve. b Cap sleeve. c Leg o’ mutton sleeve. d Juliet sleeve. e Trumpet sleeve. f Bishop sleeve. Sleeve construction is a very special part of pattern cutting. Sleeves can be part of the bodice (laid-on sleeve) or set into an armhole (set-in sleeve). Without any other design features added, a garment can look outstanding by simply creating an interesting sleeve design.

The final pattern pieces show the front bodice that has been extended underarm (5) and the back bodice with the laid-on sleeve (6). 4 6 5 Slash and spread > Sleeves > Collars 3 Pattern cutting Pleated, darted and gathered sleeves The one-piece sleeve block can be adapted in countless ways. These patterns illustrate how the sleeve block can be altered to create puffed, pleated and darted sleeves. 1 2 Pattern cutting 3 42 / 43 1 Pattern construction of a darted sleeve head. 2 Pattern for a puff sleeve construction with gathers on the sleeve head and small cuff.

So when slashing into one side only, the flare will not spread across but only appear on one side. 1 2 Dart manipulation > Slash and spread > Sleeves 32 / 33 3 Pattern cutting Pattern cutting Sleeves 1 Christian Dior, haute couture, S/S07. com. 2 A sleeve block for a set-in sleeve, showing the part where the sleeve can be eased into the armhole. 3 Variations on the one-piece set-in sleeve: a Peak sleeve. b Cap sleeve. c Leg o’ mutton sleeve. d Juliet sleeve. e Trumpet sleeve. f Bishop sleeve. Sleeve construction is a very special part of pattern cutting.

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